Marrakech developed as a trading city between the Atlas Mountains, the Sahara and northern Morocco. Ochre walls give it the familiar name “Red City”, while the contrast between the medina and the newer districts reveals how much the city has changed without losing its historic structure.

The medina

Jemaa el-Fna is the medina’s principal public space. Food stalls, musicians, performers and vendors fill the square, particularly towards evening. Rooftop cafés provide a less crowded perspective, although visitors should approach animal performances and unsolicited services critically.

The Koutoubia minaret marks the skyline west of the square. In the opposite direction, the souks extend through covered lanes traditionally organised by craft and product. Morning offers cooler temperatures; late afternoon brings shafts of light through the roofs.

Le Jardin Secret provides a quieter pause within the medina through restored gardens, water channels and a tower overlooking the roofs.

Gardens beyond the old centre

Jardin Majorelle was developed by painter Jacques Majorelle and is known for intense blue architecture among cacti, palms and water. Advance booking is sensible during busy periods.

Menara Gardens have a different scale: an orchard and olive grove surround a large reservoir and pavilion against the Atlas Mountains.

Food in Marrakech

Tagines, couscous, makouda potato fritters and zaalouk aubergine salad appeared repeatedly during our stay. Mint tea, usually sweetened and poured from a height, accompanied meals and visits throughout the city.

Staying at Riad Tawargit

Riad Tawargit is a small guesthouse in the medina, organised around an internal courtyard. Rooms and suites use a restrained combination of Moroccan details and contemporary furniture; shared spaces include a rooftop, hammam and several quiet sitting areas.

The staff arranged transfers and could organise guides and excursions. Returning to the courtyard after the dense streets outside provided the practical contrast that makes a riad a useful base in Marrakech.

The stay was hosted by Riad Tawargit. The account and opinions remain my own. Any historic promotional code mentioned in earlier versions of this article is no longer presented as current.